Saturday 29^th July Girraween, near Darwin

Yesterday, we woke as usual and drove off north again. A stop at Pine Creek, where we walked around the tiny town; a driver swap at Emerald Springs, and then another hour to Adelaide River. This town was a little bigger; but it was chock-a-block with people because they were having their annual Rosella Festival (the fruit, not the bird) at the showgrounds. We were able to park, by a fluke, right outside the general store; the lady there, where we bought a coffee, said the festival was worth a look. So we drove down there; a little country festival with various stalls, and it was worth the stop.

After lunch there we returned to the road. There was a lot of smoke haze, a usual thing here in the dry season thanks to widespread fuel reduction burning. And our GPS brought us to the house of John and Gae, Alison's sister. They live on a five acre block near Humpty Doo, so there is plenty of space to park the van in. We were even offered a bed in the transportable flat they have, but the van is so comfortable we prefer to sleep there.

So there was lots of talk, and a very nice dinner, before we went out to bed.

This morning, we went out with Gae on a little tour – up to daughter Kate's house in Palmerston, past her old office, and then to Coolalinga shopping centre. This is the next suburb north from Humpty Doo, and last time we were here the shopping centre didn't exist. Home for lunch and then doing this and that around their block. The sky is blue, the maximum temperature today 35º, and it is very pleasant. Kate came to visit in the afternoon, and stayed for dinner. Along with cooking a new batch of Anzac biscuits, we cooked dinner tonight,of a slow-roasted lamb, followed by meringues and cream – accompanied by a bottle of Bruce's wine.

Monday 31^st July Edith River

Yesterday, I'd arranged to go on a bike ride with John; so after breakfast I moved my bike from the back of the van to the back of his car, and we drove into Coolalinga. Here begins a very nice bike trail; bitumen, well away from the road, and on a large part of it with a decent fence as well! It was a very pleasant ride, at a good pace – we turned off the bike track after a few km, and rode on / beside roads (with not to much traffic) up to Howard Springs Nature Park, where the real Howard “springs” are – a large pool, with no visible water flowing in but a lot flowing out – before retracing our route. 22.6km in all, according to my speedo.

Back at Gae and John's, things were preparing for lunch – with Alison's brother Mike and his wife Ruth, who are up here for a week. It was a lovely, lavish lunch which went on for quite a while; and morphed into the afternoon. I absented myself for a while and booked tours of Cobbold Gorge and Undara lava tubes, in Queensland. Now we have both some plans about where to go next, and when to be there.

Later, we went out with Mike & Ruth to Fogg Dam near dusk (lots and lots of birds, including one Jabiru) and then came back to another lovely dinner, with more of Bruce's wine. Mike and Ruth stayed till well after dark, and then we stayed up talking till after 11pm. A very late night for us!

We got up early today, to say goodbye to Gae before she left for work at 7.22am. Then a shower, and breakfast, and talking to John – before we drove away again. Back to Coolalinga shopping centre, where we parked and shopped on both sides of the Stuart Highway. It is a very strange shopping centre in that aspect. We had a nice coffee in a nice cafe, sitting outdoors, near Woolworths, before continuing. Across the road.

Despite never going into Darwin proper, we headed out again, south. Stopped for lunch at Adelaide River, then continued on the the free camping area at Edith River, where we spent two nights on the way up. We've been able to park in exactly the same spot, again.

Tuesday 1^st August Gorrie Airstrip

After an early night to make up for last night's very late one, we woke early, did nothing but pack up the bed and put some clothes on, and drove the 40km down to Katherine – to the hot springs. At 7.30 am there were hardly anyone else there; we stayed in the water for over ½ hour, a few others turned up; it was very pleasant, and a great way to start the day.

We had intended to buy breakfast at the pop-up cafe there, but found it was closed on Tuesdays. So it was our usual breakfast in the van instead. Before leaving we drove over to near the toilet block, where the was a (vandal-proof) tap, and filled up our water, ready for the next few days.

Back into Katherine, where we parked the van in a good spot near tourist info and left it there for the day. We don't have so far to travel today, so there is no hurry; coffee at the coffee caravan, a meander through town; a look in an op shop; and then, with computers, over to the library, where I sat and did a lot of the paperwork things needing doing; paying bills, downloading some eBooks; etc. etc. By the time we finished we were both getting hungry, because it was latish lunchtime.

Over to the supermarket for provisions, lunch in the van, and out for another coffee. It was 2.05, but the coffee caravan closed at 2.00 and they wouldn't make us any! So we walked up the street to another cafe and shared an iced latte while reading the NT News. We have been really out of touch with what's been happening in the world, and this is the first cafe with a paper to read we've found since leaving on this trip!

Then – fill up with fuel, and head out south. It was ~ 2½ hours down the highway to Gorrie Airstrip, where we stayed on the way up and really liked. We stopped only to change drivers. The airstrip is less busy than last time, and every bit as nice and quiet. A walk up to the far end at dusk, watching the full moon rise.

Wednesday 2^nd August Telstra Tower, south of Renner Springs

Gorrie was so nice. But we had to leave, because a lot of driving lay ahead, today. Out on the road, south through Larrimah; a stop at the Hi-Way Inn, near Daly Waters. This was full of vehicles re-fuelling; and while we will need more before we get to Mt. Isa, the price was a tad high for my liking. We continued on the Dunbarra; Alison had seen some faded signs on the highway offering a seniors discount there. So while she made a coffee (no point in trying to buy one along this stretch) I went and asked about the discount. “Not routinely offered, but if you ask, we'll honour it” was the reply. That was good enough for me, so we filled up before we left. The whole place had a much nicer feel than the Hi-way Inn.

Then – drive. Stop for lunch at a very windy rest area at Newcastle Waters, straight through Elliot; a short walk at Renner Springs; and then on again. On the way up we'd stayed at the Attack Creek Rest Area, but it had nothing really to recommend it; so we started looking for alternatives. Our book listed a place called “Churchill's Head” on the old Stuart Highway, but the directions to it were quite vague; so when we passed this Telstra tower, down a narrow gravel road and ~ 300m off the highway, we drove – then walked – down to check it out. And it is fine. We arrived soon after 4pm, and found no-one else here – though it has obviously been used before.

It is hot and sunny and time to relax a bit. Alison rotated a front seat to relax and read in.

We had to wait till near dusk to go out for a walk, because there is a profusion of little bush flies here; we just had a short walk along the track to the nearby solar array, then came back cross-country through the spinifex – thinking of what a time the early explorers here must have had! They certainly weren't travelling at 80km/hr. The local aborigines at least would have known where they were, and where there was water.

We had an early dinner, allowing us the time to watch a film from our armchairs before bed. “Mulholland Drive” - a somewhat weird film.

Thursday 3^rd August Barkly Homestead

We drove out the narrow track back to the highway ~ 8.30am. En route we discovered that where we'd stayed was, in fact, a spot we'd seen and thought of on the way up. Past Banka Banka and Attack Creek, and we stopped at Three Ways. A big roadhouse, better than some; it had a real coffee machine so Alison bought some – but the barista (an overseas tourist, as they mostly are) was not much of a barista. Oh well.

Then off east, along the Barkly Highway. Alison drove; for over an hour, not only did we not pass anyone (at 80km/hour, we never do) but no-one passed us either! We swapped driving at the first rest area, then stopped for lunch at the second. This one (Frewina) was really nice; an extensive area off the road, and on the shores of an ephemeral lake full of waterbirds.

Nice though it was, we were headed for Barkly Homestead and a caravan park tonight. Washing, and a water refill (though we could manage another day easily; we carry enough water for three days easily, and four if we are frugal). Power we don't need; the solar panel on the roof seems to keep the battery charged well enough for our needs.

The caravan park here seemed fine – it even has a swimming pool – so we moved in, and went for a swim while the washing was being done. There as a paucity of clothes lines, so we strung one up; I supported the middle with walking poles, but the wind kept changing direction and blowing them over. But no disaster, and everything dried.

And we've sat in the sun reading, and had a relaxing afternoon.

Friday 4^th August Camooweal Billabong

As we were in a caravan park, we began the day with a shower and washing of hair. You have to take advantage of the facilities. Then filled the van up with water, and drove out.

It was 9am when we left; it took us, at our 80km/hr speed, four hours to get to Camooweal, just over the border in Queensland; after a stop at a rest area for a coffee en route. The drive was quite monotonous, through, for the most part, flat grasslands.

We drove through Camooweal. There was not very much to see except for a queue of vehicles at the service station. We joined them and put in another 10l of diesel, so that we don't have to get anxious as we approach Mt. Isa tomorrow.

We planned to stay at the Camooweal Billabong, a free camping area on a billabong of the Georgina River, just outside town. We'd heard talk of it going to be closed because of a native title claim; but it hasn't happened. Not yet, anyway. So we came down and joined the ~40 caravans down here. We went for a walk, seeing brolgas and other waterbirds, and lots of caravans, but no other motorhomes. Despite being so practical, they are a small minority.

We've had a pleasant quiet afternoon here on the banks of the billabong. It is a lovely spot.

Saturday 5^th August Mary Kathleen

Being next to the billabong, there were lots of tiny bugs in the van before lights out at bedtime – but they didn't disturb us much. Just needed to be swept up in the morning. We got up at 7am, just as the sun was rising above the billabong; it was very beautiful. And then, we were perhaps the first vehicle leaving.

It was a 2½ hour drive into Mt. Isa, seeing some flocks of budgerigars wheeling about as we drove. The country became hillier as we got nearer to Mt Isa. First stop was tourist info, where we got some maps and some basic information – but all in all not so helpful. It was now 11am, and lots of shops shut at 1pm; so we visited and op shop, then had a somewhat disappointing coffee in a nice cafe. And then it was off to the library with our computers to use their facilities before they, as well, closed.

The library had a table of books and DVD's at its entrance; and unlike most libraries which charge a dollar or two for them, these were all free! So we left with more than we had arrived with.

On the way this morning we'd wondered when our gas would run out, and whether we should change it here anyway as we were going into more remote country. We got back to the van to find it had run out, so the decision was made for us.

After 1pm by now; so we went to the supermarket for some food for luch, and also to the Telstra shop. In the library, I'd found that our Aldi phones would be out of range for at least the next week, so we bought a Telstra SIM card for a month. It was quite an involved procedure, with verification, etc., and I'm glad I didn't try to just do it myself.

Lunch. Back to the tourist information and the cafe there for a coffee – but just too late! It had closed. So, off to buy another cask of wine; but BWS here doesn't have them. We did manage to buy one, of sorts, in another shop. Re-fuel and change over gas cylinders, and we left Mt.Isa.

It has not been one of our feel-good towns.

It was 60km along a much more interesting road – curves and ups and downs – to the abandoned uranium mining town of Mary Kathleen. All the buildings have been removed, but the road grid is still visible; we are camped next to the former Police Station and across the road from the Town Square. There are lots of other vehicles here, but it is a very large area and very spread out, and we are far from the noise of the road.

Alison and I have been a bit out of touch with each other today, and while nothing has gone wrong a lot of things have not been as easy as they might have been.

And – to cap the day off – I had to get a pair of pliers out of the toolbox to open a bottle of soda water!

Sunday 6^th August Bang Bang Rest Area, south of Normanton

We both wanted a better day. And we had one.

After breakfast, we took down the bicycles and rode off on the 6km road to the Mary Kathleen open cut mine. (It said 6km, but really it turned out to be 8km.) This was the sort of thing we'd brought the with us for; the raod said “4WD”, and it was was – but only because it is an unmaintained good bitumen road with a few potholes and washouts. So for the large part it was pleasant riding, two abreast, with little other traffic.

The open pit of the mine, filled with water at the bottom, was quite spectacular. You could walk around on of the tiers of the mine, and the colours of the exposed rocks varied quite dramatically. We spent perhaps an hour there, with Alison adding to her rock collection. Of course.

The a ride back, with more traffic on the road now. (Only cars – we saw no other bicycles.) Back in the van, we enjoyed our morning coffee, with cheesecake and cream, before driving back out to the road, and the 69km to Cloncurry.

We drove through town, to Tourist info on the other side. We mostly wanted to know where we could fill up with water; the helpful lady told us, across the park where there is a dump point. One tap there is marked “potable water”, but all the taps come from the same source. So while there was a queue for “potable water”, we just filled up at another tap.

Into town; park; walk around the two supermarkets with nothing much in mind; go to the BWS grog shop, which was much better stocked than anything in Mt. Isa! And then off to lunch, just out of town at Chinaman's Creek Dam. A nice spot with a large lake of clear water.

Time to get going. North, towards Normanton. About 40km brought us to Quamby, where we stopped at the pub (the only building in town, really) and bought a coffee. And it was a very nice one, for a change!

Then, back in the van, and drive. For the first time this trip, driving until sundown and going as far as we can. Past the Burke & Wills Roadhouse at 190km, and on. There was little option of random stops, with fences both sides; we opted against the first rest area, and went on 25km to Bang Bang. It was, by now, 6.45 pm and the sun had set; fortunately Bang Bang has an extensive rea and we are parked well away from the road and from anyone else.

We had a quick dinner of instant noodles with vegies as we arrived so late.

Monday 7^th August 25km west of Croydon

It turned out that Bang Bang was the best place to stay on this stretch of road. A really expansive area – and with decent toilets as well! We stopped for a coffee 65km further along, at Flinders River. This was where we'd been aiming for yesterday, but it got dark too soon. Various spots along the old section of road near the river, but few level and finding a good spot in the dark would have been very difficult. We walked down to the river; not flowing, a large muddy pool upstream with some dead fish in it. Presumably not enough oxygen in the water.

On to Normanton. Much smaller than Cloncurry. We went to Tourist info (at the library) gefore going to the “Green Cafe” at the Albion Hotel where they'd said the coffee was good. Really, it was so-so. A walk down and up the street, seeing the life-size statue of “Krys”, the famous 8.4m (!) crocodile shot near here year ago. Enormous.

Look at emails in the library, and it was time for lunch. We drove out the the Mutton Hole Wetlands, ate lunch in the shelter, and had a little walk around. Water lilies++, brolgas, magpie geese, other birds....

Time to go on. We filled up with water, and then visited the truck stop just outside town, where we'd seen a sign to a shower. And there was! Not really meant for tourists, but.. we had a hot shower and washed our hair before heading off on the “Savannah Way” towards Croydon.

We passed the only marked camping spot, at Black Bull siding (not very attractive), and swapped drivers. The choice was in Croydon, or earlier if we found somewhere. We drove down a side track 25km short of Croydon, across the Gulflander railway line, and found a quiet spot outside a fence with a large dam and grassed area on the other side. It seems fine.

Tuesday 8^th August Cumberland Rest Area, near Georgetown

A lady riding a horse passed us this morning just before we left, but there was nothing else to disturb us all night. We drove the 25km into Croydon, parked outside the pub, and went for a walk.

What we found was a lovely little town – a former gold mining town, now an agricultural centre (not a big one). We wandered into the True Blue tourist info, which housed a display about the town and its history; and had copies of the local newsletter. Alison was reading it, and found - “Seniors morning tea”, on – today! Now! So we asked where it was, and off there we walked. A group of ~ 11 people sitting around a table in the Gulf Gate Roadhouse, and facilitated by 2 ladies from the shire council. So we had a coffee and a few of the many home-made cakes, and listened to the talk, and threw a few bits in; at the end, the only other male present did a “poetry reading” of some of his doggerel. A lot of it – he should have stopped after 3 or 4, but he just kept on going – for too long.

We excused ourselves, went back to tourist info and into their lovely gardens behind, with historical artefacts, sculptures, green lawns and various different plants; then across the road to the open historical buildings – town hall / picture theatre, courthouse, police residence, etc – all wide open to the public and really well done.

The shade we'd parked in had long gone. We drove over to some new shade and had lunch, then walked over to the cafe for a coffee afterwards. I chatted to some motorcyclists on a tour from Cairns to Darwin over mostly dirt roads; they were dressed in their heavy riding gear, I was in shorts and shirt, and I was not at all envious of them.

Then, drive. Alison had to brake for some emus, I had to for a wallaby. Two hours east, to the “ticked” rest area we are in. It's OK, but it is very full; next to a billabong with lots of bird life, but outside that quite dry and dusty. We walked around the billabong, read for a while; now it's getting dark and time for dinner.

Wednesday 9^th August Forsayth

We began with the 20km drive into Georgetown – arriving there at ~ 8.30am. Too early for anything. We looked at the caravan park which had good reviews – it had an excellent amenities block; and was off the highway; but, nevertheless, was quite crowded and not so attractive. We had planned to go there, spend the day in Georgetown, and do the washing;

we had to amend our plans. This was helped by seeing a “laundromat” - really, a little shed with 2 washers and 2 dryers in it. But they worked! We had to wait for the machines to be free, but then washed and dried clothes and sheets.

There's not a lot of Georgetown, and it didn't feel so nice to us. So we did the washing, found a tap with drinking water to re-fill our tank, filled up with fuel; we would have had a coffee somewhere but none of the three options appealed, so we made our own. We ended up having lunch in Green Park (which was a nice part of Georgetown) before driving off towards Forsayth, 40 km away. And turning around almost immediately because I'd lost my phone, which luckily I retrieved from the service station. From the lady there who remembered me well, because she was Spanish and we'd spoken in basic Spanish instead of English.

There were three sections of gravel road going to Forsayth. We drove the whole way looking for suitable spots to spend the night, which turned out to be completely irrelevant. Forsayth is a tiny town, but with a good feel. We went and spoke at length to the two blokes in the pub/general store, who were very helpful; we ended up booking in there to have dinner tomorrow (out!) and decided to leave here via Einasleigh, rather than returning to the highway at Georgetown. The last part will be 40km of gravel road, but it should all be doable. Just slow.

We'd passed a turnoff to Charleston Dam recreation area just before coming into town, so mid-afternoon we drove out there. A nice spot, with new shelters / toilets / barbecues, on the shores of a lake; and no prohibition on camping. So this is where we're staying, along with 3 other vehicles, all widely dispersed.

We cooked our piece of lamb, in our freezer for a couple of weeks, on a barbecue and ate at a picnic table overlooking the lake, at dusk. It was very nice, with no insects to annoy us.