Our Continuing
Adventures.
The West
Highland Way ( WHW) is probably the UK's
equivalent of the Overland Track in
Tasmania. Consequently, it is well signed,
an obvious route and more crowded than our
walking to date. Like the Overland track
though, while you are actually walking it
often feels like you are the only ones
walking. When you stop, then groups of
people overtake you. Unlike the Overland
track, only a few people walk with full
camping gear and the many people walking
with day packs only are staying in warm
beds, with hot showers and
a pub around the corner. They also start
the day well fortified with a " full
Scottish breakfast" as B&B
accommodation always includes this.
This is one of
the reminders that this is not walking in
Australia.
Eggs,
bacon, black pudding, baked beans, potato
cake, mushrooms and tomato, and a sausage.
When you can't face that, then porridge.
Another
reminder is the rain and mist and
atmospherics we have come to associate
with a Scottish summer. It is a shame you
often can't actually see the Scottish
highlands you are walking through and
under and over the top of. At least, most
B&B's come with drying rooms.
We have yet
to hear even one Australian accent here,
but have met many Americans, some
Canadians, Israelis, Italians, Germans,
and lots of eastern European workers in
the bars and hotels. Some of the bars have
restricted hours as they can't get staff
here either. I think the
reason has more to do with Brexit than
covid and closed international borders
restricting foreign casual workers. Covid
is still very evident but is treated as a
nuisance one has to live with. So far, we
have dodged the bullet even though people
we have walked with, and friends we have
socialised with have been struck down.
We have
enjoyed a whiskey with friends, have eaten
venison, bacon butties,salmon and fruit
pudding (like black pudding but made from
scone dough and currants I think, sliced
in a round and then fried) but drawn the
line at deep fried mars bars, haggis in
any form, and have tried really hard to
not have chips with every meal. It is a
given here that potato is part of every meal
here, and usually it is fried,. No wonder
that our friends here informed us that
every day you spend in Scotland reduces
your life expectancy.
We have seen
Highland cows and deer but no red
squirrels or otters, no pine martens and
only one hedgehog. Some of this is not
surprising when I consider that a lot of
the time we have been watching our feet
rather than looking around. Loch side
walking is full of SPUDS - silly,
pointless ups and downs - and quite a lot
of the WHW is on what are called military
roads - old stony tracks, currently
running water for a majority of each day.
Am
I sorry we bothered? No - I think this is
a fairly representative , proper look at
the Scottish lochs and glens and
highlands, but I will be happy to have a
rest day the day after tomorrow.
Simon's Journal
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